Biscotti di San Martino

Ok, technically Saint Martin was this past Sunday, November 11th, and I did really want to post about these cookies then, but I only remembered on the actual day. I desperately wanted a picture, because the elaborate shapes are 50% of what makes Saint Martin Cookies so special, but naturally no self-respecting panificio in Italy would dare be open on a Sunday.

So I planned on going straight to the panificio on Monday and writing about them then... but they are so darn popular that they were already sold out. Then yesterday we caved into the ever present temptation that is the pizzeria and didn't go to the panificio at all... which brings us to today. Wednesday. Three days late. I'm sorry.


The legend that Mamma knows says that Saint Martin was a knight who was passing through the Roman empire when he noticed a poor man stumbling along the road. It was cold and the man had no clothing to protect him from the chilly air, so Saint Martin pulled out his sword and sliced his heavy military cloak in two so he could give half to the poor man. This is why Italians may refer to "l'estate di San Martino" (the summer of Saint Martin) around the time of Saint Martin's day when the weather is unseasonably warm. Perhaps it's Saint Martin looking down on earth and giving us a small reprieve from late autumn chill.


He also happens to be the patron saint of wine makers and alcoholics. So a little shout out to Living out of the Box.

About the wine making I mean.

Not the Alcoholism.

I have yet to find a reason why these cookies in particular are associated with Saint Martin. I've noticed a lot of fennel being sold lately though, the liquorish tasting seeds of which can be used in the cookies, so perhaps there's a link between Saint Martin and fennel season? Or maybe I'm just making stuff up?

Luckily for me cousin Marisa has a recipe for these cookies, and I had initially been contemplating the idea of making them myself. I think it would be quite fun making all the different shapes, but then I saw the second ingredient... lard.

I enjoy eating these cookies too much (one of the few foods in which I enjoy the delicate taste of liquorish) and I have already had too many yummy things ruined for me by actually seeing what goes into them. So to avoid that moment when I would have to look down at a bowl full of lard and think "that will soon be settling in my thighs", I decided to let the professionals handle it for now so that I can continue to eat them with determined ignorance.

For those of you who laugh in the face of scary looking lard, or simply have a better metabolism than mine, the translated recipe is below.
 
Biscotti di San Martino

500g all purpose flour
75g lard (Crisco doesn't exist in Italy, which makes me very sad.)
100g sugar
Anise seeds or Fennel seeds, about a spoon full, or more if you like a stronger liquorish flavor.
10g beer yeast
a pinch of salt
a pinch of cinnamon.

Try not to be heavy handed with the cinnamon. Italians are very conservative with their spices and keep asking me why Americans use so much cinnamon in everything. (Answer: because it's marvelous.)


1. crush the seeds a bit to release their aroma
2. mix all ingredients together with just enough water to make a soft ball
3. Leave it to rise (about an hour)
4. Punch down the dough and form into shapes. Featured above are a few classic shapes including a common Italian bread shape called the mafalda.
5. Let them rise for another few minutes
6. Brush the risen cookies with an egg wash (yolk and milk) and sprinkle with sesame seeds for decoration if desired.
7. Bake at 400F/200C for 15 minutes, or until the cookies have a nice brown gloss.