Dogs can be creepy smart...

Early evening, on the way to Nonna Michela's in Caltanissetta.

We're sitting at the intersection, waiting for the light to turn green as a small group of pedestrians pass in front of us. AmoreMio nudges me and points out the stray dog that has decided to cross in the wake of the pedestrians. (He knows I've got a weakness for anything that wags its tail.)

As we watch, the people continue on towards a shop, but the dog stops at the corner of the intersection and sits down with its back to us, vaguely watching the opposite corner.

The stray dogs in Sicily do this all the time, just take a break wherever they like. Tired? Just lie down... no matter if it's in the middle of the road. Cars will go around me.

I figured this one was just a bit wiser than the other dogs, and had decided to take his break on the sidewalk instead of in front of traffic.

I witness the psychological abuse of a Citroen

The car: Papa's Citroen c5, built low and wide for stability on the highway.

The street: about as wide as a motorbike... at least to my easily intimidated eye. To the eyes of Papa', who has years of experience battling the tiny streets, it's an opportunity to demonstrate the Italian ability to alter the laws of physics through shear will power.