San Michele Arcangelo di Caltanissetta

San Michele Arcangelo di Caltanissetta

September 29th celebrates Caltanissetta's patron Saint, Michael the Archangel.

Legend says that while plague swept through the rest of Europe in 1625, Caltanissetta managed to stay healthy thanks to it's relative isolation and carefully guarded walls. One day however, a priest watching from a window noticed a lone figure approaching the city gates. Either this window was very close to the gate or the priest had exceptional eyesight, because the priest immediately noticed that the newcomer was ridden with plague.

Panicked at the thought of what would happen if the disease reached the gates, the priest threw himself into fervent prayer. In answer, Michael the Archangel swooped down from heaven and killed the stranger on the spot.
 Despite the harshness of this story, Saint Michael has since been considered the city's God sent protector. I suppose that it was pretty much a mercy killing since the stranger was doomed to die a painful death anyway, and countless Nisseni might have died otherwise.

Devoted followers march barefoot behind the statue of Saint Michael

These days the festival begins when the statue of Saint Michael is carried out of the Duomo and through the streets with much fan fare. Bands proceed ahead of the statue, while church bells toll the imminent passing of the saint. The lucky few who have the privilege of carrying the statue shout out chants of devotion and strength to help them bare the weight, and countless clergy and important city officials join the parade. Those who are particularly religious follow the statue throughout it's entire winding path, and the truly devout do so barefoot.
Once the statue has re-entered the Duomo, a modest display of fireworks celebrates the end of the festival. At this point most of the Nisseni head down into Via Rochester, where fair booths line a kilometer of the road. Though the current economic status doesn't permit people to buy much, resulting in rather disgruntled vendors, it is still a very popular atmosphere for a stroll.

Saint Michael coming back home to the Duomo

For the younger generations, the hotspot is the giostre in the zona industriale. Here teenagers can satisfy their craving for sugar and carnival rides, and generally bask in the rare opportunity to actually have something to do socially that doesn't involve eating lunch at the Nonna's